Caffeinated and criss-crossing Lima
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Jan 29, 2008 Posted by Carrie Hawthorne
Since I last wrote, I have visited 4 groups: Emady, Manos del Rosario, Jupa, and Ima Sumacc and have inhaled a lot of pollution. I wish I had a map of Lima to show how many different roads we have traversed. Lima is feeling bigger and bigger by the day. And my teeth are decaying by the minute because each artisan group is kind enough to give us Inka Cola or some other sort of sugar saturated, caffeinated drink. And please forgive my English as I am not one of those people that can switch back and forth from one language to another…instead as one language improves, the other deteriorates...
Of all of the groups we have visited, Emady is the most advanced and the oldest member of Bridge of Hope. Emady specializes in producing products that have a touch of Shipibo, an intricately decorated cloth from the northeastern jungles of Peru, but they also use fabrics from other parts of Peru. Dionisia Ramos started the group nearly 7 years ago and from what BOH has told me, has been able to improve her living situation drastically. She now has a large house and has been able to place her son who has down’s syndrome in a special school. Emady has several rooms in Dionisia’s house where they work and has been able to buy 3 sewing machines - a huge advancement for the artisan
groups here in Peru. Of the 5 members of Emady, 3 have been involved since the start and know how to use the sewing machines and 2 members are newer and do most of the cutting. The group works as a team, each specializes in one area of the production line so they work more efficiently than the newer groups. Emady understands the principles of Fair Trade and even have become friends with other artisan groups from the BOH Fair Trade project, inviting them over to celebrate birthdays and special occasions. They understand how to price their products so we focused more on design (Maria, an extremely talented seamstress, made me a skirt in 30 minutes!) and how BOH and PJT could be more helpful for the group.
Ima Sumacc is a group of 5 women (of whom I only met 4) who live in the Southern outskirts of Lima at the top of a mountain of sand (literally. I am constantly amazed at such a large city built in the middle of an apparent desert…and to that same effect, I constantly feel as though I am covered in a layer of dust). At first appearance, Ima Sumacc does not seem to be in dire straits; from their clothing and outgoing personalities, one might guess life isn’t so tough. And then I took a trip to the “bathroom.” I decided that we should visit the bathroom of every artisan we visit to really gauge what their living situation is like – not what their front room looks like. Ima Sumacc can crochet and knit but none of the members are adept at using a sewing machine.
(I feel that the use of a sewing machine is another gauge of how advanced a group is.) We talked about ways they could improve their current products (we only carry two of their products, an amazingly soft and stylish alpaca hat and scarf) and they also showed some samples of new products that they had been working on. I was impressed with the group and that despite the small amount of orders they have received to date, that they meet each week and try to come up with new designs. The shyest member of the group, Isabel, nearly came to tears when talking about how important the group is to her and that thanks to working with the group and in Fair Trade, she had learned how to defend herself, especially from her often abusive husband.
The other two groups we visited, Manos del Rosario and Jupa are much less advanced. This could be for several reasons. But regardless of the reasons, it is obvious that these groups need a lot of attention. It appears that neither group has a strong leader nor learned how to work together as a team and divide up the work in an efficient way. One group has made “cholita” or typical indigenous Peruvian magnets and Christmas ornaments and the other makes “arpillera” or embroidered bookmarks. Both require
elaborate, detailed work and the groups haven’t yet begun to purchase materials in bulk (to reduce the price) and are not yet dedicated enough to sit together to complete the work, instead each individual artisan takes the work back to her house and does in between cooking, cleaning, and other chores/jobs. The skills that these artisans have are also difficult to apply to the North American market.
My latest conclusion is that we need professional designers helping us with product development. My basic knack for sewing and creating products (along with the support of our amazingly talented board member and seamstress, Eleanor, or as she is affectionately called by the artisans, Leonor) is not enough to assist 20+ different artisan groups in creating several new products annually. This I’ve known all along but it has been underscored in the past few days. But this help is not something we can come by easily. As a non-profit organization, how do we attract designers who are enticed by fame and money in the real design world?? ? I’m all ears if anyone has ideas on this!